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Lifestyle

A Moda guide to 48 hours in Leeds

21 / 12 / 2024

This issue's “48 hours in”, we’re heading to Leeds. A Northern gem with architecture and independents to rival any city.

Spots-a-plenty to enjoy great food, cocktails and even better conversation with us friendly Northerners.

Created by Leeds local Sarah Cotterill.

Day One

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The true fabric of a city is woven deep within the tapestry of its cultural and physical landmarks, so where better to start this whistlestop tour of the city built upon the textiles industry than with a spot of retail therapy. Engineered by renowned architect Cuthbert Broderick in 1861, the Corn Exchange was once a thriving centre of commerce. Today shards of light beam through the glass ceiling, illuminating a charming circle of independent boutiques, selling everything from roller skates to fondue. It’s here you’ll find popular tattoo parlour Red, and the almost unpronounceable Bingley based brand, MKI MIYUKI ZOKU. A great spot for some independent shopping, whether that’s for yourself or something “From Santa”. For more sustainable shopping, head to Blue Rinse, where vintage treasures are reworked by talented resident seamstress, Kaitlyn Bullen. Zip stuck on your favourite jacket? Tråd Collective offers alterations from as little as £5, alongside a consignment service where you can cash in your unwanted garms for vouchers to spend in store. Founded by the cutest couple Jo and James, who initially made it their New Year’s resolution to buy second hand, they now annually salvage tents from Leeds Festival to make super cool sling bags. For more ethical spends, a new branch of the recycled fashion house, White Rose, has just opened on Albion Street too.


Fashionistas Favourites
Be Sure To Check Out:
Flannels, Vicar Lane
The Hip Store, Vicar Lane
Chinese Laundry, Corn Exchange
Accent Clothing, Queens Arcade
Masato Jones, Thorntons Arcade


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Whilst you’re checking out Leeds Corn Exchange, you can’t miss its beautifully decorated hall for Christmas, and just down the road at Victoria Gate you can enjoy the artisan Christmas markets taking place every Sunday from 24th November to 22nd December.


Another celebration of the textiles trade can be found at the recently renovated White Cloth Hall - next door to the Corn Exchange - a fabulous food and drink market from the team behind Leeds’s oldest pub, Whitelocks Ale House. Here four of the finest traders offer a mouthwatering mix of focaccia and fresh oysters, without a plastic fork in sight. Buttery folds of roti bread mop up Malaysian curries from Kuala Lumpur Café, washed down with local beers from the likes of Northern Monk and Anthology. Gaze up, and you’ll see the historic building’s original chandeliers powder coated in black, a proud peacock framed for Leeds United football fans, and reprints of old circus posters, from the days of Pablo Fanque.


In the mood for a show? Leeds has you covered, with a strong tradition of cabaret at The Carriageworks and the longest running music hall in Britain, City Varieties. On Quarry Hill you’ll find the innovative Phoenix Dance Theatre, alongside Yorkshire Dance, the pioneering Leeds Playhouse and Leeds Conservatoire, all just seconds away from Moda, New York Square. The Grand Theatre programmes all the West End touring hits, plus previews from esteemed local company Opera North. If panto's your thing, this year their Christmas production is none other than Jack and the Beanstalk.


Once the boozer for the cast and crew of The Empire Palace Theatre, The Empire Café concocts cordials and tinctures infused by the smoke of their wall of flame rotisserie, ideal then for a post-show cocktail. Their bar staff love Tabula Rasa near Victoria Gate, whilst drinking dens Blind Tyger and Below Stairs sling all the signatures with sustainable spirits.


Neighbouring Victoria Gate lights up at Christmas time, from lights to tasteful décor, and all the luxury shopping you need to fill your boots!

Day Two

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If you’re in need of caffeine after a few too many tipples, let the breeze blow away the cobwebs on board a Water Taxi ride to North Star Roastery café on The Docks. Running every 15 minutes from Granary Wharf behind the train station, a trip on these bright yellow boats, lovingly named Twee and Drie, is a must for any visitor to the city. At the far end, pastry perfection awaits, at so-called grain-changers, Nova Bakehouse, whose weekend countertop is laden with plump buns, sugary swirls, and sourdough still warm from the oven. Try their trademarked Morning Cake, its infused with tonka beans and cocoa. Next door, North Star supports small scale farmers, proving that speciality coffee doesn’t have to cost the earth. Its brew and brunch game is banging, with a range of organic eggs, house pancakes, and loaded salad bowls sprinkled with their magic star dust seasoning.

Coffee Connoisseurs
Be sure to check out:
Raw
Laynes
Kapow
Miles & Co
Mrs Athas
Rabbit Hole

Napoleon was known to have said “An army marches on its stomach”, so after you’ve had your fill, discover the Waterloo campaign display at The Royal Armouries, the UK’s largest collection of weaponry, spread of five dramatic floors. Their Agincourt diorama lets you search to see if any of your ancestors fought in the bloody battle, whilst canon firing demos and live reenactments can be watched from the square outside. On the adjacent waterfront, wild swimming and stand-up paddle boarding sessions run weekly.


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If you prefer to keep your feet on dry land, wander over Centenary Bridge to the cobbly Calls, and across to Kirkgate. Here, the iconic Grade II listed market was the birthplace of Marks & Spencer, and now boasts over 800 stalls – from butchers, bakers to literal candlestick makers, plus beauticians, barbers, plus free heritage tours. Graze around the lower food court, where you might find a pop-up vinyl fair or Asian Bazaar, and head out onto New York Street via the open-air exit.


Locate a rank of Beryl Bikes, one of Mayor Tracey Brabin's initiatives, which open up the greener arteries of Leeds. Easily accessible is The Meanwood Valley Trail, where you can enjoy a pint at Springwell, North Brewing Co’s taproom, or meet the Alpacas at the Urban Farm, which also offers developmental programmes for adults with learning disabilities. In the suburb itself, you’ll find the best pizza around, from dough dons Pizza Loco, in residency at the Meanwood Tavern Kitchen, another hot spot within the White Cloth / Whitelock’s family. Pizza Loco take pizza seriously with oofy Neapolitan crusts made with regenerative Wildfarmed flour. Just try it for yourself and thank us later!


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If you fancy a late-night flick, pedal over to Hyde Park Picture House, the 110-year-old cinema, restored to all its former glory thanks to Heritage Lottery funding. Behind their iconic pillar-box red lamppost, there are screenings ranging from blockbusters to the latest foreign language films, lit by the glow of their Victorian gas lanterns. With a splendid snack kiosk and community space, this venue is at the heart of Leeds International Film Festival in November and this December, they’re showing some of our festive favourites such as Elf, The Polar Expressvand Home Alone. A nostalgic joy with fun for all the family.


Further down Queens Road, also founded by local businessman Harry Child, The Brudenell Social Club is another Leeds institution, run by its members, famed for hosting secret gigs for bands such as Mogwai and Franz Ferdinand. After a pint, a performance, and perhaps a pie, you can then grab an e-bike beside Royal Park to pedal back to bed in town.

Day Three

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Fitness fanatics have plenty of choice for a morning of more exercise. Green Room on Wellington Street host a Saturday run club as well as rooftop yoga, while RYDE Studios see you spinning like crazy under flashing lights and a thumping sound system. If you’re looking for something a little lower impact, **Barrecore88 on Mustard Wharf offers a range of Barre and Pilates classes. Their Reformer Burn is a 45-minute revolution, designed to sculpt.


If, alternatively, you’re into actual sculpture, The Henry Moore Institute on The Headrow has an ever-changing bill of exhibitions and events, from the primitive to them contemporary, and the adjoining Leeds Art Gallery curates a free collection of dynamic artworks too. Directly outside, you can enjoy all that Leeds Christmas Market has to offer with a festive ferris wheel, games and stalls from Bratwursts to Baileys Hot Chocs.


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A different type of Galleria can be found beside one of the city’s old Mill complexes. A trendy event space with great gigs and DJ’s, plus a wood fired kitchen serving up breakfast, lunch, dinner and bottomless batch brew. From here, step onto Leeds Liverpool Canal, a magnificent stretch of locks and woodland, superb for a sun dappled stroll.


Take the towpath out of town to Horsforth, passing by Leeds Industrial Museum, CAMRA pub of the year, The Bridge, and the Cistercian ruins of Kirkstall Abbey. Suitably, on Sunnybank Avenue, join the queue at Slow Rise Bakery, where hand rolled and boiled Jewish bagels are slathered with classic combos of smoked salmon cream cheese, PBJ, and pastrami and pickles. If you’ve got a hankering for something a little more high-end, climb the back- to-back terraced streets to Bavette. Owned by Sandy Jarvis, of Culpeper pedigree, and his partner Clément Cousin, whose family run a vineyard in the Loire Valley, the restaurant won the Michelin Guide’s Best Neighbourhood Bistro award. The menu pays homage to hyper local produce, with all the French favourites, such as steak-frites, duck rillettes, and crème brûlée.

Sarnie Saviours
Try:
Shokupan
Sqew
Things In Bread
Koben Smokehouse
Silver’s Deli
Eataliano

Make your way home via Horsforth train station with a full and happy belly. A fitting finish to 48hrs in the city that never stands still.

The NBHD V4 has landed.

This edition arrives in time for the festive season where the twinkling lights are creeping in and everyone’s winding down (or winter arcing!) ahead of Christmas.

Check it out here.